Eleanor Lambert

Still Here
By John A. Tiffany

Fashion
October 2011
ISBN: 978-0-9833889-1-3
320 Pages / Over 300 Illustrations

$120 USD

Eleanor Lambert, as a young woman at the beginning of her career, photographed in New York by Cecil Beaton, a friend and client.

Miss Lambert and John Tiffany were photographed by Patrick McMullan at the Stanhope Hotel in New York, in the summer of 1997.

Maximilian’s “Rotunda” silhouette in milky-white ermine was shown at Fashion Press Week in 1949.

Marilyn Monroe, left, in a long silk champagne-hued dinner suit by John Moore for Talmack, was photographed with the March of Dimes poster children in 1958. The March of Dimes event was one of Eleanor Lambert’s many creations.

A fur-turbaned Miss Lambert was photographed at her office on East 57th Street, in 1963. Mrs. Loel Guinness and Lee Radziwill topped the Best-Dressed List, which Miss Lambert created, that year.

The CFDA made headlines in the New York Herald Tribune when fashion design was acknowledged as an art.

A glamorous creation by James Galanos, left, pairing a simple hooded sheath with spectacular jewels, defines the look of 1961.
An imported cloth-of-gold strapless evening gown, right, was designed by James Galanos, winner of the Twelfth Annual Coty American Fashion Critics’ Award. The intricately darted bodice is shaped to mold the body.

Having begun to design clothes in the mid-30s, Simonetta was one of Rome’s leading dressmakers when, in 1952, she married Alberto Fabiani, a rival designer. Simonetta and Fabiani successfully maintained separate couture establishments in Rome for several years, then in 1962 opened a Paris couture house together, called Simonetta et Fabiani.

Plastic face shields complete the modernist look of the abstracted design-coat dresses featured in Pierre Cardin’s 1968 haute couture winter collection. Cardin was one of the first Paris couturiers to break with the tradition of elaborate luxury dressmaking and experiment with new, abstract forms and man-made fabrics.

In 1968, at the 25th anniversary of the American Fashion Critic’s Awards of 1968, Miss Lambert received a special Coty award in recognition of her contributions to the American fashion industry.

An apricot/navy/red flower print cotton crepe blouse and pant with navy/red/white panel bloomer, left, is one of Rudi Gernreich’s designs. Pale pink satin turban, silver ball earrings, silver and gold bracelet, and gold finger ornaments by Layne Nielson for Rudi Gernreich. A brown and white giraffe “Surgeon” coat-suit in stenciled ponyskin with matching print tights and fur flats, right, is by Rudi Gernreich for Capezio.

Minnelli struts across the stage in a sporty outfit by Halston, encapsulating the energy and excitement of the evening at the world famous fashion show at Versailles, which kicked open the door for American fashion.

Models walk at the fashion show at Versailles, which was cleverly staged by composer, musician, and creator of the popular Eloise books, Kay Thompson, who Miss Lambert hired to direct the show. Thompson’s staging, which included 36 glorious models – half of them black – and Miss Lambert’s insistence on dramatic pools of light, illuminating the modern, relaxed, and sexy ready-to-wear looks from America’s top designers, were the ingredients for a refreshingly new and world-shattering performance.

Miss Lambert is pictured in her 13-room apartment, which she moved into in 1942 and lived in until her death in 2003, located at 1060 Fifth Avenue on Manhattan’s Upper East Side.

Summary

Eleanor Lambert: Still Here is the definitive monograph on the achievements of the extraordinary woman who changed fashion history, putting American fashion on the map in a culture once wholly dominated by European design and traditions. Written through the eyes and experiences of John A. Tiffany, who not only worked for Miss Lambert but who had access to a trove of archival materials that have never been published before, including dazzling fashion photography accompanied by their never-before-seen original press releases written by the legendary Miss Lambert herself, this book will provide the fashion-obsessed and many others with a behind-the-scenes account of a woman who gave life to the industry as we know it today.

About the Author

John A. Tiffany is a fashion historian and lecturer with over 20 years of experience in public relations, event production, and marketing projects around the world. He founded his own consulting business, John Tiffany + Associates, in New York in 2002. Before founding JT+A, Mr. Tiffany held the dual posts of Director of Fashion Shows/Events and Director of Operations at LaForce & Stevens in New York. Early on, Tiffany was mentored by the legendary Eleanor Lambert.

 

See Also

Eero Saarinen
Over the Top
Drawing Fashion
Class Act
Be Dazzled!